Surfing Waves

I woke up to rays of sunshine hitting my face through my window. I blinked my eyes a few times to adjust to the brightly lit up room. I jumped out of bed running to my closet. I rummaged through my messy closet looking for my pink swimsuit with little dainty white flowers all over it. 

“Bingo,” I whispered when I found it under one of my black band tees. I slipped on my swimsuit along with a pair of light denim shorts making my way to the kitchen.I grabbed a banana from the fruit bowl and made my way to the trashcan while peeling it. I threw the peel in the trash and turned around to sit on one of the kitchen stools. 

“Morning” my older brother grumbled as we made his way into the living room, looking as if he just woke up. 

“Morning,” I grinned. I finished my banana and made my way outside, pushing aside the glass sliding door. There was a cool breeze and it was sunny and warm. I made my way to our shed, opening the squeaky wooden door. The dark room illuminated with the flick of a switch. There lie my collection of surfboards. I picked up my favorite one, also pink, matching my swimsuit. I waxed the bottom of my board and made my way out of the shed carrying along my surfboard. I set up my board against the side of the house and opened the sliding door once again. 

“Going surfing,” I yelled into the house. 

“K” my brother said, emerging into the kitchen and giving me a slight nod. I grabbed my board and walked towards the beach. I guess I was lucky growing up in a beach house and learning to surf and swim before I could walk. That was a bit exaggerated but it's how I felt about this place. 

My feet hit the warm sand and I sink my toes into it letting myself bask in the sunlight. I look out to the ocean and the waves crash with a calming sound. I drop my board and wiggle out of my denim shorts and drop them into the sand. I pick my board back up once again and jog towards the water. The waves crash at my feet as I get used to the temperature. Even though I surf here almost everyday I can never quite get used to the cold feeling at first. I make my way deeper in the water and set my board atop it, the waves causing it to make moves away from me but I keep a steady hand on it. I get on my board and paddle my way out towards the bigger waves. 

I sit atop my board keeping alert for something I can take on. The cool water lapping against my sides. Then I see it. It seems to be one of the biggest waves I’ve ever seen and it's still curving upwards. I instantly paddle as fast as I can towards the wave hoping I’ll be there in time to catch it. I make it and excitement bubbles up in me because I’ve never been on a wave this big, but I can do it. I lift myself to stand up on my board and start to glide across the wave, but then something happens. The wave is starting the crash over me and I’m starting to tip over, my biggest fear. When you lose control and fall into a wave this big you get sucked under, and might not come back breathing. 

All of a sudden' sounds of rushing water hit my ear. I’m trying to breathe while being thrashed around. My ears hurt more and more as I sink deeper. I try to swim but I can’t, my board that's attached to my ankle is pulling me in every direction. Water is already up my nose. I can’t hold my breath anymore and water fills my mouth as I try to breathe the air I can’t find.

“And that was the moment when I knew it had all flown out of my reach.”